Crankbait fishing is not just casting out a bait and retrieving it. There is much more to it then that if one is to be a effective crankbait fisherman.

First off the rod and reel choice is important. I like to use a moderate action fiberglass rod designed specifically for crankbaits. This type of rod allows the bait to hook up and give just enough so you do not rip the hooks out of the fishes face.     You can do the same with your standard graphite rod. This can be accomplished by using a moderate action graphite rod as well, with a monofilament line.      The fiberglass rod you can use braid, monofilament , or fluorocarbon lines

Reel choice is also important. With all the different ratio reels available today it can be very confusing at times. Your standard gear ratio for crankbait fishing is a 5:3-1 gear ratio this is not super fast, or super slow. The smaller gear ratio makes it possible to crank all day long with ease the smaller gears allows you to reel the bait in with less effort. Similar to changing gears on a mountain bike to ride up hill.         You can even get lower gear ratio reels if needed. I run mostly 5:3-1's, but I also use a  3:8-1 gear ratio when cranking extra deep divers. This reel allows me to fish them all day long with ease.  

Line strength, diameter , and style is also important. I recommend monofilament to all just starting out. It is the cheapest and most forgiving line to use. If one wants to gain a little more depth with the same lure I then suggest two things.  First down size on line the lighter pound test the line, the thinner the line, thus the deeper the bait will dive. I would also suggest fluorocarbon as a second alternative to dragging a crank down deeper. This happens because fluorocarbon sinks, thus dragging the bait deeper.    Now if you want your bait to run shallower increase line diameter. For example your using a crank that dives 3.5 feet deep on ten pound test and you want to make that same bait run shallower I would go from 10 to 17 lb test.

   Braided line is a unique scenario, I only use it for lipless crank-baits when ripping them over weed beads. The braid helps the bait break free of the weeds cleanly and that very action triggers the strikes.

Boat maintenance

Well it's that time of the year again when everyone is thinking about getting there tackle ready for the season! However; don't forget the most important thing besides tackle , your boat!!!  

Here is the laundry list that any boat owner should live by when spring time roles around and your thinking of getting your boat out on the water for the frat time.

-first and foremost you will never leave the dock if your motor doesn't want to run.
 
Things to check or change on your motor:
-  always change your fuel filter first thing every spring
- check and or change spark plugs
- always start your motor if possible at home on the garden hose to make sure all is running well.
- gas !! Biggest issue these days with the high ethanol count, I like to hand pump out ten gallons from my tank off the gas line leading to the motor , to get rid of any phase separation of the gasoline, and to make room for fresh high octane gas to mix in before running it.

Safety equipment:
- always make sure you flares, life vests, fire extinguisher , anchor, throwable device are all in the boat and up to date.

Trailer maintenance:
-Check your wheel bearings on trailer bad day if you blow off a tire.
- if they are grease bearings re pack them, or if oil bath hubs change out oil.
- make sure tires are properly inflated!
- check trailer lights for proper operation!
- also make sure trailer registration is up to date, along with the boat registration.

Bilge pump:  make sure it turns on!



These are the basics one should cover before hitting the water. Happy boating, remember keep your  lines tight and hook sets are free.

Hunting for a Lunker

I frequently get asked this question:

What is your go-to lure for targeting big bass?

 

Well that question is an easy one for me. I use two bait styles 80% of the time. These baits are the Stanley original casting jig, and the Stanely ribbit/top toad. I use this combination starting in early spring when the water hits the 55 degree mark and all the way through the fall. These two bait styles are very versatile. You can use a jig in its conventional form, or you can swim it like a crankbait/spinnerbait, skim it across the surface like a frog, or you can hop it like a blade bait. This allows it to be used in all depths from 6 inches of water to the deepest depths you choose to fish. 

 

Fall Smallmouth on a Stanley Original Casting Jig

 

The frog style bait has some versatility as well. The Stanley ribit can be used as a buzzbait, a sub surface jerkbait in the shallows, and throwing it in the slop (as it was made for). The Stanley top toad is also a frog bait that floats. This makes it great for buzzing across the surface, and killing the bait dead in its tracks. This bait is truly a deadly presentation. This style bait does not have to be used strictly around thick mated weeds. I personally like to use them anywhere there is shallow water. I look for a depth range of 6 feet or less. There are those rare instances when vegetation will reach the surface in 10-15 foot range. Utilize the frog in this spot and you could land the biggest bass of your life.

5 lb Smallie - Hawgline Creature Bait

 

Until last year, these two baits were the only baits that I would rely on to put big fish in the boat. However I recently began working with a new soft plastic bait company that you probably have never heard of called Hawgline. The soft plastic bait brand will be released to the public within the next 6 months, and my suggestion is that you give them a try. I can confidentially say that last year I caught more big bass than in years past, and a big portion of that success was because of Hawgline and the baits that they had me demoing.

Preview

MORE FISH IN THE BOAT WITH POLARIZED

WHATS THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF YOUR TACKLE?

I am not prepared to say that polarized sunglasses are the absolute most important piece of tackle, but plain and simple, polarized glasses will allow you to safely put more fish in the boat. Your comfort levels will increase dramatically, as will your eye protection, both from the damaging sun and from lure projectiles that have misfired. In my opinion, polarized glasses are just as important as a favorite lure or a high-tech reel, because without them my day on the water will never be as productive or as safe. That's the bottom line.

 
HOW DO THEY WORK?

I get this question constantly at seminars. My simplest explanation is to think about the last time you were on the water and the sun was beaming down, causing intense glare to resonate off of the waters surface. This ultimately makes vision difficult and uncomfortable. Polarized lenses work by blocking horizontal light that is being reflected towards your eyes. By taking away these light waves, any glare on the waters surface is also taken away. The result is a clear vision and the ability to see through the water column.

                                                 ALEX KOLODY ON POLARIZED GLASSES

WHAT TO BUY?

Do your homework. Quality and Lens color do make a difference. Yellow lenses tend to be good for low light conditions. Smoke grey lenses are the best all around color for sight fishing. Blue mirror lenses are made for offshore fishing. I choose high quality all the way with HaberVision shades.

For my loyal followers, HaberVision and I have set up a discount on their entire catalog. 

Use the affinity member code: bassman 
Code is good for a 55% discount or more
www.habervision.com

ICE FISHING SAFETY

ICE FISHING SAFETY

Do you have that ice-fishing itch?? With the cold weather and snow blanketing the Northeast, Ice-fishing is on everyone’s minds.

Fishing through the ice requires skill and knowledge. But, anyone can ice fish successfully if he/she does their homework. Learning about the water to be fished, the equipment and its capabilities, proper clothing and safety precautions are all part of a successful, enjoyable winter fishing experience.

Here are a few safety tips for your upcoming ice outing…

• Go with a buddy if at all possible!
• Walk single file
• Carry a length of rope
• Ice spikes can be a lifesaver
• Always avoid spots that look slushy

AQUA VU - MICRO II

I get this question every year…

How do you know when the ice is safe?

The Minnesota Department of Natural Resources says that there really is no sure answer. You can't judge the strength of ice just by its appearance, age, thickness, temperature, or whether or not the ice is covered with snow. Strength is based on all these factors -- plus the depth of water under the ice, size of the water body, water chemistry and currents, the distribution of the load on the ice, and local climatic conditions.

5 inches of ice is what I look for. 5 inches of ice will support a small group of people walking single file.This guide is based on clear, blue, hard ice on non-running waters. Slush ice is about 50 percent weaker and should be avoided at all cost. The heavy snow the Northeast is seeing can cover up open holes making walking on the ice extremely dangerous at times. Safety should be your number one priority whenever making a trip out onto the ice!

As always…keep those lines tight and hook sets are free! -AK