Crankbait fishing is not just casting out a bait and retrieving it. There is much more to it then that if one is to be a effective crankbait fisherman.

First off the rod and reel choice is important. I like to use a moderate action fiberglass rod designed specifically for crankbaits. This type of rod allows the bait to hook up and give just enough so you do not rip the hooks out of the fishes face.     You can do the same with your standard graphite rod. This can be accomplished by using a moderate action graphite rod as well, with a monofilament line.      The fiberglass rod you can use braid, monofilament , or fluorocarbon lines

Reel choice is also important. With all the different ratio reels available today it can be very confusing at times. Your standard gear ratio for crankbait fishing is a 5:3-1 gear ratio this is not super fast, or super slow. The smaller gear ratio makes it possible to crank all day long with ease the smaller gears allows you to reel the bait in with less effort. Similar to changing gears on a mountain bike to ride up hill.         You can even get lower gear ratio reels if needed. I run mostly 5:3-1's, but I also use a  3:8-1 gear ratio when cranking extra deep divers. This reel allows me to fish them all day long with ease.  

Line strength, diameter , and style is also important. I recommend monofilament to all just starting out. It is the cheapest and most forgiving line to use. If one wants to gain a little more depth with the same lure I then suggest two things.  First down size on line the lighter pound test the line, the thinner the line, thus the deeper the bait will dive. I would also suggest fluorocarbon as a second alternative to dragging a crank down deeper. This happens because fluorocarbon sinks, thus dragging the bait deeper.    Now if you want your bait to run shallower increase line diameter. For example your using a crank that dives 3.5 feet deep on ten pound test and you want to make that same bait run shallower I would go from 10 to 17 lb test.

   Braided line is a unique scenario, I only use it for lipless crank-baits when ripping them over weed beads. The braid helps the bait break free of the weeds cleanly and that very action triggers the strikes.

Boat maintenance

Well it's that time of the year again when everyone is thinking about getting there tackle ready for the season! However; don't forget the most important thing besides tackle , your boat!!!  

Here is the laundry list that any boat owner should live by when spring time roles around and your thinking of getting your boat out on the water for the frat time.

-first and foremost you will never leave the dock if your motor doesn't want to run.
 
Things to check or change on your motor:
-  always change your fuel filter first thing every spring
- check and or change spark plugs
- always start your motor if possible at home on the garden hose to make sure all is running well.
- gas !! Biggest issue these days with the high ethanol count, I like to hand pump out ten gallons from my tank off the gas line leading to the motor , to get rid of any phase separation of the gasoline, and to make room for fresh high octane gas to mix in before running it.

Safety equipment:
- always make sure you flares, life vests, fire extinguisher , anchor, throwable device are all in the boat and up to date.

Trailer maintenance:
-Check your wheel bearings on trailer bad day if you blow off a tire.
- if they are grease bearings re pack them, or if oil bath hubs change out oil.
- make sure tires are properly inflated!
- check trailer lights for proper operation!
- also make sure trailer registration is up to date, along with the boat registration.

Bilge pump:  make sure it turns on!



These are the basics one should cover before hitting the water. Happy boating, remember keep your  lines tight and hook sets are free.